Shooting in sunlight can lead to images who have high contrast, blown out highlights, lens flare and colors which may even look overly saturated. If you’re shooting portraits they can also result in the ‘squint factor’.
So what’s a photographer to complete? Here are eleven quick and simple tips at combating the problems that bright sunlight might bring when shooting outdoors:
With some subjects you’ll be capable of move them (and yourself) in to the shade. This is particularly relevant with portraits where your subject is very portable. Sometimes the simplest solutions would be best.
If your subject is not movable (by way of example if you’re shooting macro work using a flower) build your own shade. Use your own shadow, the shadow as someone else or bring an object with you (as an umbrella, a reflector or large sheet of card) to bar out the sun.
Most individuals were educated to put the sun behind you when taking a photograph so your subject will probably be well lit. Shooting to the sun may lead to lens flare or perhaps a dark subject – but from time to time it can improve it drastically – notably if you use a flash to add the shadows which are created by this (find out more on using fill flash).
Another way to fill out the shadows caused by direct sunlight is to use a reflector. These bounce light up in the face of one’s subject and therefore are great simply because they allow that you shoot in the sun – just like when you’re using add flash.
Sometimes moving your subject isn’t possible – but moving around it could give a different impact. This might be moving towards the other side with the object, shooting from directly above and even getting down low and shooting up. Doing so changes the angle of the sun hitting both your subject and also the camera and provide your image a completely different feel.
Suffering from lens flare? If your lens came which has a lens hood – understand it out and put it to use. If you don’t have one – it’s not difficult to construct one out of card – in order to even use your hand to shield your lens in the sun. Just make sure that your shot is free of your hand or perhaps the amazon BP-808 Charger that you’re using (find out about eliminating lens flare).
Sometimes a filter can be handy when shooting in bright sunlight. I try to consider a Polarizing filter or Neutral Density (ND) filter with constantly. The polarizing filter will help cut down on reflections and both will cut down the light engaging in your camera to help you to use slower shutter 90devypky and smaller apertures if you’re searching for more control over these elements of exposure. Polarizing filters possess the added bonus of providing you some control over some colors – particularly when you’ve got a blue sky with your shot (learn more about using filters).
Many cameras come with a chance to choose different white balance settings. While you’ll be able to make adjustments down the road post processing (especially when shooting in RAW) choosing the right setting with the time of shooting might be worth using. I personally shoot in RAW and do this afterwards my computer – but have friends who prefer to do it in camera.
Direct sunlight makes correct metering tricky. In these conditions I generally choose spot metering mode on my small DSLR and select the main subject of the scene that I’m photographing (the focus) to meter off. Alternatively choose a mid-tone area to meter off if you need everything being exposed relatively well. Check your shots immediately to see if you should adjust your technique (your histogram can be handy here) if you contain the luxury of energy – take multiple shots metering off different parts from the scene so that you are able to choose the best one later.